Komiža - Barjoška - sv. Bjož - Komiža

The trail begins above Bisevo Hotel, the big white building at the end of the bay. It is not hard to find it; you cannot miss it. Arm yourself with water and start your adventure. It is always nicer if you have company to share the beauty and joy that you see. Believe me, here you have plenty to see.

When you live here and you know more or less everything, maybe you have been in some places multiple times, it is still nice to return and remind your senses and enjoy. Nature is something you just have to love. It simply doesn't leave us any other choice. Thus, we don't mind, and here we are again.

The tightly curved path separates us on the left from the slope towards the sea and then again from the pretty view towards Komiža. On the right and through hill is who knows which tunnel from the times of Yugoslav Army domination.

On the top is the area called Golubjera. Once I heard a story about it, but I wasn't listening carefully enough. Next time I am going to tune my ear better. Now we are going over the hill in front of us toward the bays of Perna and Knezica. Soon we are connecting with a firemen's path which is new, because this area was previously out of range for our fire brigades. Because a path like this didn't exist until recently, we had a few uncontrollable fires in the past.

As we follow the path, soon we have an open sea view and we can see the islands Veli and Moli (big and small) Barjak. It is a well-known area for sea passengers, where some have already paid for inattention with their barges and cruisers. The sea is whirling and foaming here from all sides. Big sea-streams are forming and it is better to go around than go through them. To stay here and feel that power is imperative. Allow the wind to sweep over you. It will bring you the smell of sea, pines and rosemary. It will bring you the smell of immensity, and you will become a part of it.
This area reminds me of one lovely story about Barjaci which is told by noted prof. Joško Božanic. Click here and find out how how people used to live on the island at the beginning of the twentieth XX century.

There is one of many ruined barracks, which collapsed right where it stood and now looks spooky. A monstruous project of occupation and some kind of reservation in which the island was sacrificed due to „higher politics“, bringing us today to a situation where we can say „Vis sank“.

We were controlled by the law about prohibition of residency and movement of strangers on Vis. For many years the connection between the island and world was broken. The Yugoslav army occupied about 30 of the most attractive locations -- or 25 % of of the whole island. At least 1000 soldiers roamed across the island. Military bases were dangerous with several kilometers of barbed wires around them, and they unquestionably reminded us of Nazi camps. One of those places is „Barjoški“. This ghastly place always takes me back with just a look at the concrete and 88 mm cannons which were menacing everybody and everything. Just looking at the iron makes me feel cold and it gives me the creeps. That reminds me of all the guys who were killed in their fatherland's war and who gave their lives for peace and my walk today. Give them respect. They earned it.

There is one more beautiful bay here. Let's take a moment to relax and refresh in its protection.

The path back lead us to marks which take us into „Dragodid“. You have to see that. Several old houses which are recognised as something old and valuable which has to be preserved.

They restored one part of them and now it is a place protected as a monument of culture.

Cheerful hosts looked at us with smiling faces and shared their culture of living with us. We armed ourselves with fresh water, took few photos because we just had to have it, and moved on.

 

The path through the woods brought us again to the firemen's road and on the correct marks we turned towards St.Bjoža church. When you get to church, ring the bell and the wind will carry away the sound and mark your presence on the hill.

Coming down is easy and fast indeed. This part of the path is trod by common people, because every year when they celebrate St.Blaž, congregations and priest go up where the mass is held. On this day school children have a holidy from school, and pupils and teachers go together for the walk.

It is a nice custom. I think that the island isolation helped to preserve many customs which are respected today.

The route Komiža –Barjoška – sv.Bjož – Komiža lasts about 5 – 6 hours.